So You Want to Study Music Abroad

Originally published to jennyclarinet.com

Throughout the past two years, I’ve received many questions about my experience studying clarinet in France. I believe studying abroad (whether it’s music or any other discipline) is a great opportunity to learn about other cultures while creating lifelong friends and memories. I encourage anyone interested in studying abroad to make it happen, and I hope this article helps if you’re considering studying abroad.

Below are some of the most common questions I get asked, along with some questions from my Facebook page. Disclaimer: These responses are based on my own experiences and won’t necessarily apply to all study abroad situations. Before moving abroad, do as much research as possible for your own program, course of study, and country.

Why did you want to study clarinet in France?

I wanted to study with Philippe Cuper, who teaches at the Versailles Conservatoire. He has always been one of my favorite clarinetists, and hearing him perform the Francaix Concerto at the ICA ClarinetFest in Los Angeles in 2011 inspired me to begin researching a move to France. Additionally, so much of the clarinet’s history is centered in Paris – the solo de concours at the Paris Conservatory, the rich history of instrument and reed manufacturers in Paris, and the famous composers create an unparalleled clarinet culture.

I want to study abroad, but I’m not sure which country is right for me.

Think of your favorite soloists, performers, pedagogues, teachers, conservatories, and orchestras. Is there a pattern among them? I decided on France specifically for my teacher, but maybe you’ve always been interested in traditional Spanish music – look into Spain. Love listening to Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninoff? Consider Russia. Talk to your teacher or school’s study abroad counselor for advice. As much as you like a certain country or culture, just make sure that you have a connection to that country or a legitimate reason to move there (besides the sparkling beaches, national cuisine, or Hogwarts-inspired castles).

Did you study French before you moved to France?

Aside from a year of mediocre high school French class, not really. I practiced with Duolingo and Rosetta Stone before I moved, but I wish I had more opportunities to study the language seriously. I thought my French was a lot better than it actually was when I arrived in Paris. I was surprised by how quickly everybody speaks, and although many people do speak English in Paris, it can still be overwhelming. It’s true that the best way to learn a language is to be thrown into the culture. My advice is to practice the language as much as possible before you arrive – listen to the radio, find others to practice conversing, and immerse yourself in the language. My most embarrassing language mishap: I ordered a slice of pizza at a boulangerie (I know, I know, I should have stuck with the pastries!) and they asked me a question that I didn’t understand, so I said no, took my pizza, and left. It was only after I got on the train with my pizza did I realize they had asked if I’d like them to heat my pizza, which is why I suffered through cold pizza on the train back to Paris.

Is it expensive to live in Paris?

This answer depends on your lifestyle and levels of comfort, but Paris is not as expensive as I expected. Of course, you could increase costs by living in the 7th arrondissement near the Eiffel Tower or in the bohemian Montmartre neighborhood, but I don’t recommend this, especially on a student budget. My grocery bills are much cheaper in France than they are in the States, but that being said, brasseries and other restaurants are usually more expensive. Create a budget, apply for grants and scholarships in your country, and research jobs (just be sure it’s allowed with your visa). The biggest cost advantage to living in France? Tuition! My tuition last year was only 300 euros – for the entire year! In the States, a single textbook can be more expensive than that! So even if you decide to live in a ritzy neighborhood and wine and dine yourself around Paris, it’s still probably cheaper than a year’s tuition for most schools in America.

What was the biggest culture shock?

Definitely the smoking. It looks sultry and romantic in movies about Paris, but when everyone is smoking all day around me, all I can think about is the second-hand smoke I’m inhaling.

Was it scary moving to a foreign country?

Yes and no. I was too excited about the opportunities I would have in France to be very scared, but it was a weird feeling moving to a country without knowing anybody. Of course I miss my family and friends, but I am very thankful to have the opportunity to live in such a beautiful city. Many people think that Paris is unsafe now because of the recent terrorist attacks, and while this is a valid concern, these attacks can happen anywhere.

What are the differences between the French and American approaches to music?

In America, many musicians begin in a middle school band or orchestra program, where they learn music simultaneously with their instrument. French music pedagogy teaches students how to read music, rhythm, and basic music theory before applying it to an instrument. There is also a heavier emphasis on ear training and solfège in the French school. And by the way, I even had to “relearn” music – instead of whole notes, half notes, etc. the names are different (noires, blanches, croches, etc). Not having a strong foundation of solfège was also difficult – Every Good Boy (doesn’t) Do Fine in France!

What do you miss most about America?

Besides my family and friends? Spicy food! French cuisine is rich and decadent, but not spicy. Two of my favorite restaurants in Paris are El Guacamole and El Nopal, both near the Canal St. Martin, where I can get my spicy food fix.

What are the advantages of studying music abroad as opposed to staying in the States?

Gaining a new cultural perspective and meeting people from around the world. Studying music in a different country introduces you to so many new ideas, pieces of music, composers, performers, and opportunities you probably wouldn’t have experienced otherwise. If you live in a larger city, you also can hear traveling orchestras and soloists perform in your city.

What advice do you have for anyone interested in studying music abroad?

Just do it. If you’re thinking about studying abroad and unsure, imagine yourself 20 years from now – which will you regret more, studying abroad or not studying abroad? Don’t be deterred by rejected grant proposals, lengthy visa procedures, or complicated administrative regulations. It might seem like a lot of work now, but the reward is worth it.

About Jenny Maclay

Dr. Jenny Maclay enjoys a diverse career as a clarinet soloist, recitalist, orchestral player, chamber musician, pedagogue, and blogger. In 2021, she was the Visiting Instructor of Clarinet at Brandon University (Canada) and was Visiting Lecturer of Clarinet at Iowa State University in 2020. Online, she is known as Jenny Clarinet, where she created her eponymous popular blog, and she is also the Social Media Coordinator for the International Clarinet Association.

In addition to teaching and performing, Jenny is also interested in travelling and researching clarinet cultures around the world. To date, she has visited and performed in over 30 countries, and she enjoys meeting other clarinetists during her travels. Recently, she was selected by the Council of Faroese Artists as an artist-in-residence in Tjørnuvík, Faroe Islands, where she performed and promoted clarinet compositions by Faroese composers. She has also been named an Artist-in-Residence Niederösterreich, and she will study the clarinet compositions of Ernst Krenek and his wife Gladys Nordenstrom during her residency in Austria in 2022.

Jenny was the recipient of the 2015-2016 Harriet Hale Woolley Award for musical study in Paris, where she was an artist-in-residence at the Fondation des Etats-Unis. She received her Master of Musique, interprétation, et patrimoine at the Versailles Conservatoire in the class of Philippe Cuper and her Doctorat en musique interprétation at the Université de Montréal in the class of André Moisan. She has achieved a number of other notable musical honors, including selection as a prizewinner, finalist, and semi-finalist for such international competitions as Concerts Artists Guild and Astral Artists, and other recent prizes include 1st prize at the 2017 Clé d’Or international music competition and highest-ranking clarinetist at the 2016 Tunbridge Wells International Young Artist Competition in England. Most recently, Jenny performed a virtual recital at the International Clarinet Association’s ClarinetFest 2021, featuring a transcription of Brahms’ Zwei Gesänge, Op. 91 for clarinet, theremin, and piano. Other recent performances include a virtual recital for the U.S. Embassy France and a collaborative duo recital with Sauro Berti, solo bass clarinetist of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at ClarinetFest 2019.

Jenny has performed with orchestras throughout Europe and North America. In 2017, she toured with the Jeune Philharmonie franco-allemande et hongroise, an international orchestra comprised of musicians from over 20 different countries. During past seasons, she has performed with several orchestras, including the Ensemble Orchestral Les Voyages Extraordinaires, Écoute Ensemble de Musique Contemporaine, Orchestre d’Harmonie de Levallois, Florida Orchestra, Valdosta Symphony, and Ocala Symphony. As a chamber musician, she has performed several masterworks in prestigious venues, including the Mozart clarinet quintet at La Seine Musicale and the Messiaen Quatuor pour la fin du temps at the Fondation des Etats-Unis in Paris.

Jenny received her Bachelor of Music Degree in Clarinet Performance from the University of Florida, where she graduated summa cum laude and was a Fulbright Scholar alternate. Her teachers include Philippe Cuper, Karl Leister, André Moisan, Mitchell Estrin, Todd Waldecker, John Cooper, and Donald Dowdy. She was the youngest presenter of refereed research at the 2014 International Clarinet Association ClarinetFest. Recently, Jenny has been an invited artist and presented lectures on musicpreneurship at Louisiana State University, University of Memphis, University of Iowa, Loyola University, Millikin University, Middle Tennessee State University, University of Alabama Birmingham, University of Central Florida, University of South Florida, University of Southern Mississippi, and has been a featured soloist at the keynote ceremony of the Alabama Music Educators Association Conference.

Jenny Clarinet has been featured in The Clarinet and the Clarineat podcast and has been named one of Feedspot’s “Top 20 Clarinet Blogs, Websites, and Influencers to Follow.” To date, she has published over 300 articles which have been read in over 177 countries and translated into multiple languages, and she has contributed articles which have been featured in The Clarinet, Vandoren WAVE newsletter, Deutsche Klarinetten-Gesellschaft, Rodriguez Musical Services blog, and Lisa’s Clarinet Shop blog. Her first book, an examination of unaccompanied clarinet repertoire, is currently in publication. Jenny Maclay performs exclusively on Vandoren reeds, mouthpieces, and ligatures.

When she’s not onstage or in a practice room, Jenny enjoys travelling and has visited over 30 countries. During her travels, she likes to befriend the local cats and enjoys reading books at kitschy cafés. Her caffeination of choice is espresso or Earl Grey tea.